Kantha comprises of the simplest stitch in the language of embroidery - the running stitch. It is the way in which this stitch is used, in different arrangements, that forms the complex vocabulary of Kantha. Originally it was used to join layers of old saris, to make quilts. It was also used as a means of self expression by both urban and rural women in West Bengal, India.

The Sanskrit word kontha means 'rags.' One legend links their origins to Lord Buddha and his disciples, who used to cover themselves with garments made from discarded rags that were patched and sewn together. Rags displayed at Indian shrines or tied to tree limbs symbolize prayers and wards off the evil eye. The oldest extant Kantha date from the early 1800s and is embroidered with blue, black and red threads that were unraveled from sari borders.

This same skill has been used by artisans from rural India, to produce these pieces from new cotton cloth.